Wednesday, February 16, 2011

Off to the races

Today I'd like to share a whiskey-based cocktail that initially resembles a Manhattan. Changing the proportions, adding Bénédictine, and replacing the cherry with a twist result in a very different and complex drink. For the rye whiskey, Old Overholt is great choice (usually listed at $12/bottle), but it's worth comparing with Jim Beam, Sazerac, Michters, and the citrus-heavy (ri)1. Leave the 100-proof Rittenhouse for Old Fashioneds (a delicious topic for a later post). For the sweet vermouth, Cinzano is reliable, but the Antica Formula Carpano should be tested.

Preakness

1.5 oz rye whiskey
3/4 oz sweet vermouth
1/2 tsp Bénédictine
1 dash bitters (try Peychaud's)
1 twist lemon peel

Stir all ingredients (save peel) with ice and strain into cocktail glass. Add twist and serve.

Friday, February 11, 2011

From the heart of Gascony

Cassoulet D'Artagnan


2 lbs Coco Tarbais beans, rinsed and picked over
12 oz ventrèche in one piece
10 cloves garlic, peeled
2 medium onions, skinned and cut in half
1 carrot, coarsely chopped
bouquet garni made of 5 parsley sprigs, 3 celery leaves, 1 thyme sprig, 1 bay leaf, 5 cloves, and 10 peppercorns, wrapped in cheesecloth and tied
10 cups water
6 duck legs confit, cut in half at the joint
6.5 oz of duck and veal demi-glace dissolved in 3.5 cups of water
1 Tbs tomato paste
kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
8 links Duck and Armagnac Sausage, lightly browned, then cut in thirds crosswise
1 lb fresh Garlic Sausage, cut into 12 slices
1/4 cup duck fat, melted




  1. Cover beans with water and soak overnight. Drain and put into a large heavy casserole, preferably cast-iron, with ventrèche, garlic, onions, carrot and bouquet garni. Cover with the 10 cups of water and bring to a boil. Simmer over low heat, stirring often, until beans are barely tender, about 1 hour.
  2. Drain beans, discard onions and bouquet garni. Cut ventrèche into 1/2 inch squares.
  3. Season beans with 1 teaspoon and several grindings of pepper.
  4. Preheat oven to 325ºF.
  5. Place half of the bean mixture in casserole. Add duck legs, browned duck sausages, chopped ventrèche and garlic sausage slices, then cover with remaining beans.
  6. Mix tomato paste into dissolved demi-glace, then pour over bean mixture.
  7. Drizzle duck fat over top.
  8. Cover and bake until hot and bubbling, about 2 hours. Cassoulet may be prepared ahead to this point, then cooled and refrigerated for up to 3 days. Bring to room temperature before proceeding.
  9. Increase oven temperature to 400ºF. Uncover casserole and bake until top is browned, about 20 minutes. Remove from oven and serve.

Thursday, February 10, 2011

Chemistry in the kitchen

In his charming manner, the food writer Mark Bittman breaks down salad dressing to its essential components: (1) fat, (2) acid, and (3) some kind of flavoring. With those three components, there is a lot of home kitchen chemistry possible in the selection and balance of those parts.


Sampling different oils for salad dressings (besides the ol' EVOO) can be an expensive but rewarding activity. Hazelnut oil, walnut oil, avocado oil, and others are becoming easier to find, but remain on the pricier side of things. The fruity and nutty accents make for surprising salads. N.B. follow the storage directions on the oil bottles as shelf-life can be shorter than you think and most require refrigeration. Experimenting with vinegars and French mustards can be just as much fun.


This dressing is just a template for experimenting, but works wonderfully over a big mix of greens such as mâche, mesclun, spinach, basil, cilantro, and watercress. Use a very fresh egg for the yolk to brighten the flavors.


Greens Dressing
Whisk together and pour over salad:
6 Tbs hazelnut oil
3 Tbs tarragon vinegar
1 egg yolk
1 Tbs Dijon or Meaux mustard
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Wednesday, February 9, 2011

For the love of lamb...



Boston Lamb Jam 2011


The American Lamb Board and BostonChefs.com host the Lamb Jam in Boston at The Charles Hotel on Sunday, February 20th. This year 16 of Boston’s top chefs come together to celebrate American Lamb by creating succulent and savory selections paired with beer from 8 Boston breweries and hand-picked wines from California and Washington. The chefs will be competing for a Best in Show top prize of a trip to NYC to compete in Lamb Jam NYC Cook-off (September 2011) against Lamb Jam winners from Seattle, DC, and San Francisco. Tickets are $50 and include tastes of 16 lamb dishes, beer from 8 breweries and wine from CA & WA.

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Don't forget the Beef Suet and Bone Marrow

Tomorrow evening I will be sampling my first Craigie on Main's Triple-Beef Cheeseburger, which was listed in Bon Appétit last fall as one of the best burgers in America.


"Triple-beef?" That means beef brisket, short ribs, and hanger steak -- mixed with beef suet and bone marrow. Charging $18 per bite burger, Craigie's bar-menu-only snack may or may not prove worth every dime. That remains to be determined. Report to follow. Til then, please keep your defibrillator charged.

Monday, February 7, 2011

Too much Caprese?

Well, you can't ever have enough Insalata Caprese. However, should you find yourself with the ingredients and seeking something warmer and to serve as a contorno, this recipe is your answer. The quality of your ingredients seriously determines the quality of this dish (or any dish, as we know).

Fonduta di pomodori

10-12 medium tomatoes (about 1.5-2 lbs)
extra virgin olive oil
1 cup basil leaves, finely sliced (chiffonade)
8 oz mozzarella cheese, diced or about 20-25 bocconcini
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Preheat the oven to 350ºF.

2. Cut the tomatoes in half around their equators. Place them cut-side-up in an oiled baking dish that can accommodate them all snugly in a single layer. The snug fit is important since they will collapse while cooking.

3. Sprinkle with salt and pepper and drizzle excessively with olive oil.

4. Bake in the pre-heated oven for about 1 hour. Continue baking until the tomatoes have broken down.

5. Then remove from oven, top with basil. Place mozzarella on top of basil. Return to oven for 2-3 minutes to melt cheese without browning it. Serve immediately.

Sunday, February 6, 2011

Send in the Amish

This salad always reminds me of summertime. If you need a good dose of sunshine, try this easy recipe.

Amish Broccoli Salad

1 large head broccoli, broken into small florets
1 med. red onion, chopped (about 1/2 cup)
8-10 slices bacon
1 cup mayonnaise
1/4 to 1/2 cup sugar
2-3 Tbs cider vinegar
1/2 cup raisins
1/4 cup shelled and salted sunflower seeds

Cut bacon into bits and fry crisp. Mix together mayonnaise, sugar, vinegar, bacon, and raisins.

Pour over broccoli and onions. Mix well. Top with sunflower seeds.

Let stand at least 1 hour or more before serving.

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Gratin without the potatoes

Most Americans hear the word "gratin" and think potatoes. Rightfully so, thanks to "scalloped" potato dishes such as the gratin dauphinois. The term gratin refers to the browned crust that tops all gratin dishes with cheese, breadcrumbs, egg, even butter serving as the crust toppings. Gratins can be savory and they can be sweet. While I do adore gratin dishes involving potatoes, there are non-potato gratins worth championing, including Thomas Keller's gratin de chou-fleur (cauliflower). Today however I turn to spinach. 

This recipe comes from Christophe Felder and Jean-Louis Motte's Gratins. Raclette is a semi-firm cow's milk cheese. If you cannot find raclette, try the more flavorful Comté or even Gruyère.

Spinach Gratin with Raclette Cheese 

3 Tbs extra virgin olive oil
2 lbs whole fresh spinach, rinsed and dried
3 cloves garlic, finely chopped
3 medium shallots, finely chopped
1/3 cup finely chopped Italian parsley
Fine sea salt
Fresh ground black pepper
3/4 cup crème fraîche
2 Tbs unsalted butter
10 oz raclette cheese, very thinly sliced

1. In a large skillet, heat the oil over medium heat. Add the spinach and sauté, stirring frequently, for 15 minutes. Add the garlic, shallots, parsley, a generous pinch of salt, and several turns of the pepper mill and stir to combine. Add the crème fraîche, stir to incorporate, then remove from the heat and set aside.

2. Preheat the oven to 425ºF. Butter a 10-in round or 11x7-in oval baking dish. Spread half the spinach mixture over the bottom of the dish, then top evenly with half the cheese, then repeat this process. Bake in the center of the oven for about 20 minutes, until the top is browned and bubbling. Serve immediately.

Minting the Savory

For the first 15 years or so of my life, this exact soup was featured annually at our family's Christmas dinner, following a first course of smoked salmon (usually shipped from several aunts and uncles in Ireland) and homemade brown bread. It has since been replaced by a curried zucchini (courgette) soup that is delicious but doesn't quite compare to spinach and peas that are infused with mint.

This easy recipe is adapted from the 1982 classic The Silver Palate Cookbook by Julee Russo and Sheila Lukins. A similar but less flavorful soup (lacking the mint) recently appeared in Bon Appétit and suggested adding crème fraîche and crumbled bacon as garnish. Why not?

Minted Sweet Pea and Spinach Soup

4 Tbs unsalted butter
2 cups finely chopped yellow onions
10 oz frozen chopped spinach, defrosted
3 cups chicken or vegetable stock
10 oz frozen peas, defrosted
1/2 bunch of very fresh mint
1 cup heavy cream (I prefer light)
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Melt the butter in a pot. Add the chopped onions, cover, and sweat over low heat until tender and lightly colored, about 25 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, drain the spinach and squeeze out excess liquid. Pour the stock into the pot, stir in the peas and spinach, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until peas are tender, about 20 minutes.

3. Pull the mint leaves from their stems; there should be 2 cups loosely packed leaves. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry. When peas are tender, add mint to the pot, cover, and simmer for another 5 minutes.

4. Pour the soup through a strainer, reserving liquid and transfer the solids to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. [Here I recommend using a hand (emulsifier) blender to avoid extra clean-up and to preserve some texture in the soup. If using hand blender: strain and reserve liquid, keep soup solids in pot, add 1 cup of cooking stock and blend.] Add 1 cup of the cooking stock and process until smooth.

5. Return the purée to the pot. Add the heavy cream and additional cooking liquid, about 1 cup, until the soup is of the desired consistency.

6. Season to taste with salt and pepper, simmer briefly to heat through, and serve immediately.

Makes 1.5 quarts, 4-6 portions.

Thursday, February 3, 2011

For the love of BACON



Savenor's are once again gathering new members for its Bacon Society. Functioning as a bacon-of-the-month club, this society will send you on the 15th of every month a variety of bacon all-stars like Applewood Bacon, Duck Bacon, Cob Smoked Bacon, Fruitwood Smoked Bacon, Wild Boar Bacon, Neuskies Bacon, even Uncured Smoked Bacon. Now you don't have to bring home the bacon. It's waiting at your doorstep.

Wednesday, February 2, 2011

Winning friends with salad

Despite Homer and Bart Simpson's catchy song teasing Lisa the vegetarian, you *can* make friends with salad. If your potential friends enjoy cheese (and blue cheese at that), this one's a winner.


This salad is adapted from a recipe by the Benedictine monk and author of several cookbooks, Victor-Antoine d'Avila-Latourrette, who is based in Millbrook, New York (not far from Poughkeepsie) and sought after for his celebrated homemade vinegars.

The tangy fruit of cider vinegar and the softness of Boston lettuce combine well with the hazelnut oil and walnuts to match the strident quality of the Roquefort and the sharpness of the frisée. Don't forget the salt and freshly ground black pepper. And enjoy all the new cheese-loving friends!

Salade au Roquefort

In a salad bowl, tear into leaves and combine:
1 small head Boston lettuce
1 small head frisée (chicory)

Add to greens:
1/3 to 1/2 pound Roquefort cheese, crumbled
2/3 cup walnut halves (chopped, if too large)

In a small bowl, whisk together then pour over salad and toss:
1/3 cup hazelnut oil
2 tablespoons crème fraîche or heavy cream
3 tablespoons cider vinegar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Getting in The Last Word

For my first cocktail post on this blog, I turn to a current favorite of mine: The Last Word, a prohibition-era cocktail that apparently has its origins at the bar of the private Detroit Athletic Club. I first had one at Drink, situated in Boston's Fort Point neighborhood and part of Chef Barbara Lynch's Boston empire. Served in a cocktail glass, this drink calls for four ingredients in equal portions (gin, lime juice, green Chartreuse, and maraschino liqueur). A maraschino cherry makes for a nice garnish. As in all drinks calling for maraschino cherries, I highly recommend investing in real cherries available at The Boston Shaker or even on Amazon.

For the gin, you don't need to turn to the high-end botanical or citrus heavy-hitters like Hendricks or Tanqueray Ten. I myself do not prefer Bombay Sapphire (even on its own), but instead enjoy Plymouth. In The Last Word however Beefeater works well against the other potent flavors since this cocktail is all about balance. You will find new flavors with each sip.

Green Chartreuse (as opposed to its yellow, slightly sweeter sibling) is 55% alcohol, made from over 100 alpine herbs and produced by monks in the French Alps. Luxardo produces a very fine maraschino liqueur that is becoming easier and easier to find (usually about $30/bottle).

The Last Word

One part gin
One part lime juice
One part maraschino liqueur (such as Luxardo)

Shake on ice. Serve in a cocktail glass. Garnish with maraschino cherry.

Great variation:

Final Ward (created by Phil Ward of Death and Co. in Manhattan)
Equal parts rye, lemon juice, Luxardo, and Green Chartreuse

Florence in February

Winter in Florence is a magical time. The city finds itself neither swarming with cruise-ships of tourists from Pisa nor baking its monuments and inhabitants into a stifling tomb of hazy, hot humidity. A serious drawback to the sensation of owning the city by day and night is the Florentine thick-walled architecture (aimed to keep the inside cool in summer) and the Italian interpretation of central heating. As stunning as a 14th-century palazzo might be, there's a reason ornate tapestries were hung on almost every inch of wall space. The bone-chilling dampness of Florence in winter will drive you to throw on another sweater and cook up something warm.

Fear not: whether you happen to be strolling down the Via dei Calzaiuoli without the need to walk with your elbows out or say "excuse me" in eleven languages or you happen to be digging out of another foot of snow and ice on the east coast of the US, this easy Tuscan soup will keep you warm through February.

Zuppa di Fagioli

In a large pot, over medium heat, warm:
2 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil

Cook for 5 minutes:
1/4 cup chopped pancetta or thick-sliced bacon

Add and cook for 7 minutes:
1 chopped carrot
1 chopped celery stalk
1/2 chopped yellow onion

Add and cook for 1 minute:
3 minced garlic cloves

Add:
3 15-oz drained cans of cannellini beans
5 cups, good-quality chicken broth (or better, homemade)
1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme

Simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Take off heat and blend (with handheld immersion blender or, in batches, in food processor) until smooth. Stir in 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.


When serving, try topping each bowlful with a drizzle of rosemary oil for an inviting addition.

Irish Staples

There's a joke about Irish cuisine that a seven-course meal in Ireland would involve a six-pack of Guinness and a potato. Funny, sure, but it's far from true (well, actually, how far depends on who's cooking). While culinary sophistication might get in the way of the real charms of Irish fare, one can achieve beautiful results given the proper and fresh ingredients and some tender care. As a dual citizen with Ireland, I am proud to stand up for Guinness, potatoes, lamb stews, and all those less-stereotypical Irish dishes.

One cannot avoid the staples however. I share with you my mother's brown bread recipe, one of surely thousands of variations across Ireland. She herself has a variety of brown breads, but this is the go-to for Christmas and Easter. It's great with Irish butter (available at Whole Foods) or topped with smoked salmon (first spread crème fraîche or quark, then top with capers and diced red onion).

Irish Brown Bread

Preheat oven to 425ºF. Grease a loaf pan with butter.

Sift with a sieve into a bowl:
1 cup wheat flour
1 cup unbleached flour

Add, then mix:
3 tsp baking powder
2 pinches bread soda
1 cup bran
1 pinch salt
1 pinch sugar

Whisk together in a separate bowl:
1 egg
1-1/4 cups milk

Slowly, in batches, add egg-milk mix to dry ingredients, stirring to incorporate.

Bake at 425ºF for 10 minutes. Then bake at 350ºF for 45 minutes.

"to charm, to strengthen, and to teach"

And so it begins. The title of this blog is taken from a terrific album of medieval and renaissance music recorded by the Orlando Consort (well worth buying). As a recently-minted PhD in historical musicology, an amateur but studious cook and mixologist, and a once-and-future singer, I have accepted the challenge to gather my interests both gastronomical and musicological in one place.

To begin, I share one of the loveliest songs surviving from the fifteenth century. The song is composed by Guillaume Du Fay, perhaps the most celebrated composer of the fifteenth century and likened by some to be music's Jan van Eyck. Written in the 1420s, the song itself is a farewell song, "Adieu ces bons vons de Lannoys" [Farewell to the good wines of the Laonnais] -- this is Du Fay's farewell to fine wines, joy and pleasure, townspeople, and his love. Here is the text and translation. N.B. this song survives on one page of one book, written at the bottom of the last page of that book and is partially lost thanks to a hungry mouse. Let us be grateful that the mouse was not more hungry that day.

Why a farewell as an opening? Beginnings often make me think of endings and T.S. Eliot tells us: The end is where we start from. So let us begin with our farewell.