Friday, October 7, 2011

Salt-Cured Pork Jowls?

If you've never tasted guanciale or attempted to cook with it, you're missing out. Drop what you're doing and look for some. Now. Yes, yes, we're talking about pig cheeks (er, jowls). Jowl is a brilliant-sounding word that probably has you imagining Karl Rove, Mark Shields, or Jabba the Hutt, but if those jiggling double-chins haven't revolted you toward another page yet, let the Italians show you what one can do with pig jowls, or guanciale [from the Italian, guancia, for cheeks].

Italians (especially the Umbrians) are fond of curing pig jowls in salt and pepper for several weeks. It's often compared to pancetta, which is the Italian take on cured pork belly. [By the way, if you ever dream of making your own pancetta and have the patience to wait three to four weeks before sampling, you could turn here (gulp).] But pork cheeks are not pork belly, either anatomically or gastronomically. The flavors and textures are different. And since guanciale, like pancetta, is not smoked, it is much more delicate in flavor than most bacons one encounters. For those in the Boston area, there are a few places in Cambridge that offer it, including Formaggio Kitchen, Central Bottle Wine + Provisions, and Savenor's. Also, Russo's in Watertown. If you're interested in curing your own [pig] cheeks, one can turn to Mario Batali or Josh Friedland for instructions and accompanying recipes.

Now, what to do with these prized cheeks? Homemade bucatini all'Amatriciana is a revelatory treat. Not only will you enjoy sampling guanciale, but you can see how a tomato- and onion-based pasta sauce can become infused with this deep porcine flavor. I share here Bon Appetit's recipe from last May, ready in about 45 minutes. It's really worth the extra effort to find guanciale. One word, out loud: jowls!