Florence in February

Winter in Florence is a magical time. The city finds itself neither swarming with cruise-ships of tourists from Pisa nor baking its monuments and inhabitants into a stifling tomb of hazy, hot humidity. A serious drawback to the sensation of owning the city by day and night is the Florentine thick-walled architecture (aimed to keep the inside cool in summer) and the Italian interpretation of central heating. As stunning as a 14th-century palazzo might be, there's a reason ornate tapestries were hung on almost every inch of wall space. The bone-chilling dampness of Florence in winter will drive you to throw on another sweater and cook up something warm.

Fear not: whether you happen to be strolling down the Via dei Calzaiuoli without the need to walk with your elbows out or say "excuse me" in eleven languages or you happen to be digging out of another foot of snow and ice on the east coast of the US, this easy Tuscan soup will keep you warm through February.

Zuppa di Fagioli

In a large pot, over medium heat, warm:

2 Tbs extra-virgin olive oil

Cook for 5 minutes:

1/4 cup chopped pancetta or thick-sliced bacon

Add and cook for 7 minutes:

1 chopped carrot

1 chopped celery stalk

1/2 chopped yellow onion

Add and cook for 1 minute:

3 minced garlic cloves

Add:

3 15-oz drained cans of cannellini beans

5 cups, good-quality chicken broth (or better, homemade)

1/2 tsp finely chopped fresh thyme

Simmer over low heat for 10 minutes. Take off heat and blend (with handheld immersion blender or, in batches, in food processor) until smooth. Stir in 1/2 cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper.


When serving, try topping each bowlful with a drizzle of rosemary oil for an inviting addition.