Saturday, February 5, 2011

Minting the Savory

For the first 15 years or so of my life, this exact soup was featured annually at our family's Christmas dinner, following a first course of smoked salmon (usually shipped from several aunts and uncles in Ireland) and homemade brown bread. It has since been replaced by a curried zucchini (courgette) soup that is delicious but doesn't quite compare to spinach and peas that are infused with mint.

This easy recipe is adapted from the 1982 classic The Silver Palate Cookbook by Julee Russo and Sheila Lukins. A similar but less flavorful soup (lacking the mint) recently appeared in Bon Appétit and suggested adding crème fraîche and crumbled bacon as garnish. Why not?

Minted Sweet Pea and Spinach Soup

4 Tbs unsalted butter
2 cups finely chopped yellow onions
10 oz frozen chopped spinach, defrosted
3 cups chicken or vegetable stock
10 oz frozen peas, defrosted
1/2 bunch of very fresh mint
1 cup heavy cream (I prefer light)
salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1. Melt the butter in a pot. Add the chopped onions, cover, and sweat over low heat until tender and lightly colored, about 25 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, drain the spinach and squeeze out excess liquid. Pour the stock into the pot, stir in the peas and spinach, and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer, partially covered, until peas are tender, about 20 minutes.

3. Pull the mint leaves from their stems; there should be 2 cups loosely packed leaves. Rinse thoroughly and pat dry. When peas are tender, add mint to the pot, cover, and simmer for another 5 minutes.

4. Pour the soup through a strainer, reserving liquid and transfer the solids to the bowl of a food processor fitted with a steel blade. [Here I recommend using a hand (emulsifier) blender to avoid extra clean-up and to preserve some texture in the soup. If using hand blender: strain and reserve liquid, keep soup solids in pot, add 1 cup of cooking stock and blend.] Add 1 cup of the cooking stock and process until smooth.

5. Return the purée to the pot. Add the heavy cream and additional cooking liquid, about 1 cup, until the soup is of the desired consistency.

6. Season to taste with salt and pepper, simmer briefly to heat through, and serve immediately.

Makes 1.5 quarts, 4-6 portions.

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